Count down to spring

It was strange year and the next one 2014 will not be easier – still seeing McCall’s patterns for spring make me smiling. Thinking of spring, sunny, warm, long days is what I need – these grey, short days are really nothing for me. So I started to count down to spring.

I browse through the new Early Spring McCall’s patterns collection I can say only one thing – SIPLICITY. There are not so many (maybe even not at all) new ideas.

M6883 Misses’ Dresses and Slip – using nice fabric – e.g. lace – doesn’t require complicated cut. Made of light cotton or silk it would be perfect for first spring warm days.

Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday Collection

Recently the new Vogue Patterns Winter/Holiday Collection was launched.
Well, what shall I say about them… I will start from the ones I find the most interesting.
1. V8943 – Misses’ Dress and Slip by Claire Schaeffer – beauty in its simplicity

The fabric used for this dress gives this special appearance – the pattern is very simple. I think of ordering it only because I hope for few couture techniques included in the pattern description by Claire.

Surprise from Marfy!

Still not sure which pattern to pick up for a French jacket – try this Marfy fee pattern!

There are 3 patterns to download: a jacket, a skirt and a top.

Both the jacket and the skirt are perfect for the French Jacket sew along!

Studio Faro had solved the puzzle!

Browsing through the FB posts today I saw first this small puzzle from Studio Faro Well-suited

followed by this hint …

Marfy Collection 2013/2014 Autumn/Winter

The Marfy catalogue Collection 2013/2014 Autumn/Winter is out!

 

Lovely surprises

It is nice to come home and it is even nicer to find out that all ordered goodies were delivered.

From the American Duchess the shoes clips holders arrived. Isn’t this small bag cute?
Soon the new accessories will be available in my web shop – Red Point Tailor.

 

Short update on pants fitting

It was good to have a short break from my pants and fitting issues.

I have completely forgotten about the Burda Sew Along so now I have to hurry up with my man jacket project. I will trace pattern tomorrow and start to make a muslin.

Meanwhile while having a stained glass workshop I came across a small treasury.

 

Here we go again :-)

I looked at all pants patterns I have made so far, all alterations and I concluded that I have to make a new one.

I took measurements once again – as far as I could do this…and I took old – very old book – with instruction how to draft standard trousers pattern.

The title is ‘Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej (Construction (drafting) and modelling women’s wear (heavy))’ – by heavy is meant jackets, coats, etc., by Zbigniew Parafianowicz and Maria Piskorska. It was issued in 1986 for tailor schools. Very much use by me book – well tested . From the pencil notes I could see I was making a pants once – long, long, long ago… based on the instruction from this book.

Pants fitting follow up

So I am on the 6th pants muslin now… I think at least – I am lost at this moment.

After the last 4th muslin I decided to draft basic pattern myself.

I took the book ‘Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear’ by Winifred Aldrich

Me Made May 2013 has officially started!

I am very exited with the Me-Made-May 2013 challenge. Specially that I promised myself to make during this month a pants. I have bought so beautiful fabrics that I cannot wait to wear them.

I am using the Vogue pattern V8781 model E – straight-legged pants with waistband with hook/eye closure and mock fly zipper. Generally speaking the model is very simple and that’s what I like about it. It would be a good basis for other pants.

 

I have made a pattern for size 10 as usual and started to work on muslin – I used a piece of fabric for curtains I once bought. After the 1st try pants were ready I have seen all kind of folds, wrinkles and gathers.

So I started to studying a very good book – Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth G. Leichty, Della Poterburg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband – I have bought few months ago.

This book shows possible cases of wrinkles due to the figure shape and the different ways of dealing with them. It is as well presenting the pattern alterations depending on whether you are dealing with RTW garment or self-drafted pattern – very handy.

When you are on your own it is ‘easier’ to check and alternate the front of the muslin and almost impossible to really see and correct back parts. Additionally the Vogue pattern is designed for a woven fabric and I am making my pants from woven stretch fabric.

I have transferred all adjustments on the pattern

and I have made second muslin. This time from the woven stretch fabric (the same as my future pants).

 

The results where a little better but still there was a lot of wrinkles…

After the second one I took an old RTW pants I am not wearing any more (only when painting 🙂  and cut it in pieces. They are not so perfect but I was hoping it would help.

As you can see the differences are huge.

I adjusted the pattern and muslin and sew it again. Well, it was a little better

I am a little fed up with this all corrections. I am making my last muslin – hopefully wearable – from the stretch woven jeans fabric. I do not have enough fabric to make the full  length trousers so either I will keep it short (maybe I will make even shorter) of I will add a ‘cuffs’.  The most important it has to fit first 🙂

So three muslins further I am almost back to the beginning. The wrinkles are still there – true a little less – but still, plus I see other issues as well, hrrrr…..

I am checking again the fitting book, reading all fitting advises in Threads magazines (which actually are showing only simple adjustments so even less then in the book) and I have enrolled to the Craftsy online course Pant Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina.

Other option is to draft self the basic pattern for the trousers. It would be a good exercise.

If this will not work I will just sell the fabrics and start to work on a Chanel-like jacket.

Yes, I know why I prefer to make and wear dresses, rocks and jackets… 🙂