Making something for my shoes – week-end DYI

Going back to reality after very short holidays is very difficult. I am sure it is a very common feeling. Fortunately the rainy weather with gray days is helping in this process.

Making a small fast things is helping as well. So I decided to make a shoe inserts for my pumps. I have already had one pair which I find very useful – it keeps my shoes in shape.

I use it as an example to make a pattern. The making process is very simple.

I used canvas as a basic fabric. In this case I use some pieces I had over after making few muslins.

Vogue 1023 time to work on sleeves

The bound buttonholes are ready, the singlewelt pockets are installed – it is time to set in the sleeves in my new vintage Vogue Jacket V1023.

This jacket has kimono sleeves with underarm inserts. To make sewing in the sleeve inserts easier it is advised to sew patches to the underarm seams.

I have machine stitched following the seam line on the corner.

Vintage jacket V1023 single welt pockets

The next make for vintage Vogue Jacket V1023 were single welt pocket.

I have started to made the welts the way I was always doing and then – when I was almost ready to sew the side seams together – I realised it will give a bulk.
The fashion fabric – boiled wool – is thick so I needed to find another method.

I have seen in on of my couture books a method for decreasing a bulk in waist band ends and this reminded me the way K.D. King is presenting in his Craftsy class – Designing Details: Pockets

Designing Details: Pockets
from: Craftsy.com

Vintage Vogue 1023 – next piece ready – under collar

 

The next piece of my vintage Vogue Jacket V1023 is ready – under collar.

 

The under collar has the hair canvas pad stitched to it for better shape and stability.

It was great to have such big Tailor’s ham. It helped to give a shape to the under collar after all pad stitching was done.

 

 

Do you still miss a Tailor’s ham in your sewing atelier? Check my post on how to make it.

 

 

By Red Point Tailor

 

Vintage jacket deserves bound buttonholes

My Vintage Vogue Jacket V1023 is designed with bound buttonholes, which gives this extra vintage twist to this garment.

I have checked the pattern description on the method recommended to use to make the bound buttonholes – which is the same as described in the book Vintage Couture Tailoring by Thomas von Nordheim.
BTW – this is fabulous book written with great passion for traditional tailoring /couture – you feel it while reading.

If you think
– the description in the pattern description is not so clear, or
– you do not have this book or any other book where the bound buttonholes technique is describe, then
-> check tutorials available on-line – there are so many different methods.
However if you would like to make bound buttonholes as recommended for this pattern – check this – TUTORIAL: BOUND BUTTONHOLES by Colette Patterns.

Let’s start test

My fashion fabric for this jacket is thick so I decided to test 2 methods to check which would give the best result and less bulk.

First of all I have prepared a sample of fabric layers exactly I am going to work with: fashion fabric, underlining, hair canvas. I have marked two buttonholes.

METHOD 1

I have made the first bound buttonhole making first the opening – using a piece of lining. Then I have made the stripes from the fashion fabric.

I have attached the stripes at the back of the test facing. Hmmm… it looks not so bad but I have a lot of bulk. This method would be good to use with thinner fabrics.

METHOD 2

The next method wat the one described in the pattern description. I have attached a piece of fashion fabric at the front, sew in place and cut the opening. I turn the piece of fabric to the WS and press.

Then I have folded the upper lip back up so that the half of the opening is covered and done the same with the bottom one. After pressing and fastening it was ready. This bound buttonhole is much better. It looks better and have less bulk.

The decision was made – I will use the second method.

Meanwhile I have chosen the buttons – they are almost vintage, I have bought them very long ago.

The next step – attaching the hair canvas to the front and then working on the bound buttonholes.

By Red Point Tailor

 

Pavlova Top with long sleeves–how to

Emma Jayne from Clipped Curves who has just finished this wonderful Mustard Pavlova top asked me how to adjust this pattern for long sleeves.

“Hi, to make the sleeves of the pavlova wrap top longer did you just extend the sleeve pieces and continue to taper to wrist measurement? I’d like to do it for my next make so that I can wear it into the winter. Thanks”

In April this year I have made 2 Pavlova Wrap Tops adjusting pattern to have long sleeves. The jersey I have used was more suitable for autumn/winter than summer top.

 

Advance 8190 first steps

After Studio Faro has solved the puzzle of this vintage pattern Advance 8190 I decided to give it a try.

I have dug out this light pink jersey and after making sure there is enough fabric to make a wearable test model I fist started to make a pattern.

 

The Marfy dress pattern 3069 – how to – step by step

 

I like this Marfy dress more and more. I decided to make the dress in two colours.
The dress will be plain red and the top from the fabric with flowers pattern. Or other way around?