Here we go again :-)

I looked at all pants patterns I have made so far, all alterations and I concluded that I have to make a new one.

I took measurements once again – as far as I could do this…and I took old – very old book – with instruction how to draft standard trousers pattern.

'Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej

The title is ‘Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej (Construction (drafting) and modelling women’s wear (heavy))’ – by heavy is meant jackets, coats, etc., by Zbigniew Parafianowicz and Maria Piskorska. It was issued in 1986 for tailor schools. Very much use by me book – well tested Knipogende emoticon. From the pencil notes I could see I was making a pants once – long, long, long ago… based on the instruction from this book.

First chapters are about figure, measure points and how to measure. Then the basic bodice and skirt are described then step by step pants’ contrition. There is as well showed how to finish drafted pattern – how to check if all parts fit nicely – ‘walking the patterns’ as Sandra Betzina would say Glimlach.

Drafting pants muslin - here we goDrafting pants muslin - here we go

One of the last chapter is about pattern alteration – very important for me! – with good tips and handy remarks.

Drafting pants muslin - here we goDrafting pants muslin - here we go

After the front and back patterns were drafted I traced them on the fabric.

Drafting pants muslin - here we goDrafting pants muslin - here we go

I have marked all construction lines and tomorrow I am going to cut it off and – maybe – sew.

Drafting pants muslin - here we go

Red Point Tailor Glimlach

14 thoughts on “Here we go again :-)

  1. I’ve never drafted my own, sounds like a huge challenge. I love the Helen Armstrong book, although I will admit to just using it for inspiration and altering current patterns.

    1. Well, I have been drafting a lot of patterns (for all) and I have few books – including my study books, with instructions.
      The challenge is not drafting a pattern but:
      1. taking measurements of myself by myself – difficult
      2. self fitting on myself – diffuclt to see all wrinkles – specially behind.
      I have a camera so I can take a photo of my backsite but still … challenge 🙂
      It is much easier to make a garment for other person – easier to fit.

  2. I have just started taking my Patternmaking course! We are using the book: Patternmaking for Fashion Designers by Helen Armstrong. However, for this course, we will only be drafting the bodice and tops and the skirt. No pants. That’s for an upper level course. But, the book we use does cover pants. This polish book looks like a good one, (from the pics anyway, as I don’t read polish).

    1. Great! Success with your course! I am thinking of taking the pants fitting course… However I have found today the old pattern taken from the trousers made by my friend – I will check if it is still ok first.

  3. I’ve just started making pants. I’m curious now to draft a pair. I have a book that shows how. Thanks for the inspiration.

    1. I have Cal Patch’s Design-it-Yourself. I’ve only drafted pants for my niece as a test run. I like the way the book reads. It’s been easy for me to follow, even if I haven’t made the plunge to draft anything for myself.

    2. Thanks for a tip Leila – I will check this book – as well as the one Backi mentioned by Helen Armstrong.
      I drafted now I think 3 pants patterns – this is not an issue.
      The crotch is an issue 🙂 and all body inperfection. I discover daily something new – after each alteration 🙂

    1. Well, the time has come. I dont wear trousers very often but when I do I want to have good fitting one. and I want to have one with high waist…hmmm…
      I have faith in this old polish book… 🙂

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