Almost for the last time pants fitting issues

Today I tested few crotch adjustments.

This adjustment #1. I have made the front crotch line 1 cm longer and back crotch line 2 cm shorter and deeper. There are still wrinkles but I could say acceptable.

pants fitting issuespants fitting issues

The adjustment # 2. I have made the front crotch line deeper and back crotch line shallower.

pants fitting issuespants fitting issues

The back looks better but the front I prefer as at the first adjustment.

I still think that the amount of seem allowances is playing a role here so I decided to combine adjustment # 1 for front and adjustment # 2 for back and make this muslin pants as they are at this moment. I can always wear them at home while e.g. gardening Glimlach

So here it is after it is almost finished:

pants fitting issuespants fitting issues

I immediately noticed strange wrinkle around the tights. As  I could not resist I pinned it and I will put it on the pattern. Having this done I think the next muslin will be better.

Funny thing is that when I compare the original Vogue 8781 pattern with the pattern I have drafted myself with all alterations – there main difference is this one horizontal wrinkle… it will be interesting to make another muslin.

Sometimes I think that maybe it would be better to make this pants from woven fabric without stretch – or less stretch.

As I have to leave for a weekend for my work I will give it a rest.

Red Point Tailor

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Me Made May 2013 has officially started!

I am very exited with the Me-Made-May 2013 challenge. Specially that I promised myself to make during this month a pants. I have bought so beautiful fabrics that I cannot wait to wear them.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

I am using the Vogue pattern V8781 model E – straight-legged pants with waistband with hook/eye closure and mock fly zipper. Generally speaking the model is very simple and that’s what I like about it. It would be a good basis for other pants.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

I have made a pattern for size 10 as usual and started to work on muslin – I used a piece of fabric for curtains I once bought. After the 1st try pants were ready I have seen all kind of folds, wrinkles and gathers.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

So I started to studying a very good book – Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth G. Leichty, Della Poterburg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband – I have bought few months ago.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

This book shows possible cases of wrinkles due to the figure shape and the different ways of dealing with them. It is as well presenting the pattern alterations depending on whether you are dealing with RTW garment or self-drafted pattern – very handy.Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

When you are on your own it is ‘easier’ to check and alternate the front of the muslin and almost impossible to really see and correct back parts. Additionally the Vogue pattern is designed for a woven fabric and I am making my pants from woven stretch fabric.

I have transferred all adjustments on the pattern

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

and I have made second muslin. This time from the woven stretch fabric (the same as my future pants).

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

The results where a little better but still there was a lot of wrinkles…

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

After the second one I took an old RTW pants I am not wearing any more (only when painting 🙂  and cut it in pieces. They are not so perfect but I was hoping it would help.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

As you can see the differences are huge.

I adjusted the pattern and muslin and sew it again. Well, it was a little better

I am a little fed up with this all corrections. I am making my last muslin – hopefully wearable – from the stretch woven jeans fabric. I do not have enough fabric to make the full  length trousers so either I will keep it short (maybe I will make even shorter) of I will add a ‘cuffs’.  The most important it has to fit first 🙂

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

So three muslins further I am almost back to the beginning. The wrinkles are still there – true a little less – but still, plus I see other issues as well, hrrrr…..

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

I am checking again the fitting book, reading all fitting advises in Threads magazines (which actually are showing only simple adjustments so even less then in the book) and I have enrolled to the Craftsy online course Pant Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina.

Other option is to draft self the basic pattern for the trousers. It would be a good exercise.

If this will not work I will just sell the fabrics and start to work on a Chanel-like jacket.

Yes, I know why I prefer to make and wear dresses, rocks and jackets… 🙂