I am very exited with the Me-Made-May 2013 challenge. Specially that I promised myself to make during this month a pants. I have bought so beautiful fabrics that I cannot wait to wear them.
I am using the Vogue pattern V8781 model E – straight-legged pants with waistband with hook/eye closure and mock fly zipper. Generally speaking the model is very simple and that’s what I like about it. It would be a good basis for other pants.
I have made a pattern for size 10 as usual and started to work on muslin – I used a piece of fabric for curtains I once bought. After the 1st try pants were ready I have seen all kind of folds, wrinkles and gathers.
So I started to studying a very good book – Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth G. Leichty, Della Poterburg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband – I have bought few months ago.
This book shows possible cases of wrinkles due to the figure shape and the different ways of dealing with them. It is as well presenting the pattern alterations depending on whether you are dealing with RTW garment or self-drafted pattern – very handy.
When you are on your own it is ‘easier’ to check and alternate the front of the muslin and almost impossible to really see and correct back parts. Additionally the Vogue pattern is designed for a woven fabric and I am making my pants from woven stretch fabric.
I have transferred all adjustments on the pattern
and I have made second muslin. This time from the woven stretch fabric (the same as my future pants).
The results where a little better but still there was a lot of wrinkles…
After the second one I took an old RTW pants I am not wearing any more (only when painting :-) and cut it in pieces. They are not so perfect but I was hoping it would help.
As you can see the differences are huge.
I adjusted the pattern and muslin and sew it again. Well, it was a little better
I am a little fed up with this all corrections. I am making my last muslin – hopefully wearable – from the stretch woven jeans fabric. I do not have enough fabric to make the full length trousers so either I will keep it short (maybe I will make even shorter) of I will add a ‘cuffs’. The most important it has to fit first🙂
So three muslins further I am almost back to the beginning. The wrinkles are still there – true a little less – but still, plus I see other issues as well, hrrrr…..
I am checking again the fitting book, reading all fitting advises in Threads magazines (which actually are showing only simple adjustments so even less then in the book) and I have enrolled to the Craftsy online course Pant Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina.
Other option is to draft self the basic pattern for the trousers. It would be a good exercise.
If this will not work I will just sell the fabrics and start to work on a Chanel-like jacket.
Yes, I know why I prefer to make and wear dresses, rocks and jackets…🙂