Pants, Pants, Pants… Lesson Learned

It was difficult to resist when I have seen a pants in a shop which fitted me quite ok. But I knew I have one waiting for me at home … to be finished. It was difficult decision to put it back on a rack.

From other side it was not so good decision to start on this project at the end of 2014. It is easy to get frustrated.

This McCall’s pattern M6440 pants looks so good on this model – so easy – so tempting…

M6440 (1)

After cutting the pattern pieces from the fashion fabric (stretch jeans) I sew all pieces with very loose stitch. I put it on hoping git will fit perfectly. Well… I probably do not have to add that it was not a success.

It took me few days of fitting to get acceptable result. So it was time to mark all adjustments on the pants and rip all seams.

Working on a pants - making adjustments

Next I transfer all changes on paper pattern pieces.

Working on a pants - transferring adjustments to paper patterns Working on a pants - making adjustments on paper form Working on a pants - making adjustments on paper form

This adjustment will be the most challenging…

Working on a pants - making adjustments on paper form - crotch line

I am curious if this adjusted version meets my expectations.

Next time I won’t start difficult/complicated project just before the end of the year. What’s your experience with difficult – frustration leading projects?

By Red Point Tailor

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Topic of 2013-pants fitting issues

Probably you all noticed that there are a lot of us trying to achieve proper fitting trousers this year. Maybe because I am busy with the pants I see this topic popping up on blogs more often than usually.

Wonderful Sarah Liz – who is sewing trousers as well  and wrote a lot of great posts regarding trousers fitting issues (check this one with fantastic advises) – has shared on her blog inforamtion about a book – The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns – The Perfect Fit.

First I thought – well… another book; shall I buy it; is there really something new…

Topic of 2013–pants fitting issues, there is still hope for my trousers, must have in sewing libraryTopic of 2013–pants fitting issues, there is still hope for my trousers, must have in sewing library

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Here we go again :-)

I looked at all pants patterns I have made so far, all alterations and I concluded that I have to make a new one.

I took measurements once again – as far as I could do this…and I took old – very old book – with instruction how to draft standard trousers pattern.

'Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej

The title is ‘Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej (Construction (drafting) and modelling women’s wear (heavy))’ – by heavy is meant jackets, coats, etc., by Zbigniew Parafianowicz and Maria Piskorska. It was issued in 1986 for tailor schools. Very much use by me book – well tested Knipogende emoticon. From the pencil notes I could see I was making a pants once – long, long, long ago… based on the instruction from this book.

Continue reading “Here we go again :-)”

Pants fitting soap follow up

So I re-traced the pattern and marked all alternations. I ripped off my third muslin to use it for the next try. I run out off muslin fabric…

Pants fitting soap  follow up Red Point Tailor

I really exhausted and out of ideas. But I really would like to have good fitting trousers. And the key issue is the crotch shape/length,

The results of latest adjustment:

Pants fitting soap  follow up Red Point TailorPants fitting soap  follow up Red Point TailorPants fitting soap  follow up Red Point Tailor

What is my level of acceptance? I still see issues however I have to probably make the seems smaller – it could be that the amount of fabric is pulling in the front crotch.

Maybe I will leave the back with these wrinkles… or I will draft another pattern and start from the beginning. First I have to by some muslin fabric.

It is nice to hear from other bloggers who experience (or experienced) similar issues so we can share our findings.

My Meisje had as well enough of this pants and demanded some attention by trying to help me with pattern adjustment Glimlach

Pants fitting soap  follow up Red Point Tailor helping hand

It looks like I will not have new pants for the weekend. Ok… next weekend then.

Red Point Tailor

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Pants fitting follow up

So I am on the 6th pants muslin now… I think at least – I am lost at this moment.

After the last 4th muslin I decided to draft basic pattern myself.

I took the book ‘Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear’ by Winifred Aldrich

Pants fitting follow upPants fitting follow up

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Me Made May 2013 has officially started!

I am very exited with the Me-Made-May 2013 challenge. Specially that I promised myself to make during this month a pants. I have bought so beautiful fabrics that I cannot wait to wear them.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

I am using the Vogue pattern V8781 model E – straight-legged pants with waistband with hook/eye closure and mock fly zipper. Generally speaking the model is very simple and that’s what I like about it. It would be a good basis for other pants.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

I have made a pattern for size 10 as usual and started to work on muslin – I used a piece of fabric for curtains I once bought. After the 1st try pants were ready I have seen all kind of folds, wrinkles and gathers.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

So I started to studying a very good book – Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth G. Leichty, Della Poterburg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband – I have bought few months ago.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

This book shows possible cases of wrinkles due to the figure shape and the different ways of dealing with them. It is as well presenting the pattern alterations depending on whether you are dealing with RTW garment or self-drafted pattern – very handy.Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

When you are on your own it is ‘easier’ to check and alternate the front of the muslin and almost impossible to really see and correct back parts. Additionally the Vogue pattern is designed for a woven fabric and I am making my pants from woven stretch fabric.

I have transferred all adjustments on the pattern

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

and I have made second muslin. This time from the woven stretch fabric (the same as my future pants).

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

The results where a little better but still there was a lot of wrinkles…

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

After the second one I took an old RTW pants I am not wearing any more (only when painting 🙂  and cut it in pieces. They are not so perfect but I was hoping it would help.

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

As you can see the differences are huge.

I adjusted the pattern and muslin and sew it again. Well, it was a little better

I am a little fed up with this all corrections. I am making my last muslin – hopefully wearable – from the stretch woven jeans fabric. I do not have enough fabric to make the full  length trousers so either I will keep it short (maybe I will make even shorter) of I will add a ‘cuffs’.  The most important it has to fit first 🙂

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

So three muslins further I am almost back to the beginning. The wrinkles are still there – true a little less – but still, plus I see other issues as well, hrrrr…..

Me-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogueMe-Made-May '13, MMM2013, Muslin, Trousers, vogue

I am checking again the fitting book, reading all fitting advises in Threads magazines (which actually are showing only simple adjustments so even less then in the book) and I have enrolled to the Craftsy online course Pant Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina.

Other option is to draft self the basic pattern for the trousers. It would be a good exercise.

If this will not work I will just sell the fabrics and start to work on a Chanel-like jacket.

Yes, I know why I prefer to make and wear dresses, rocks and jackets… 🙂