Draft custom pant slopers with confidence!

Thinking of sewing a good fitting pants? Check these new online courses at Craftsy!

Patternmaking + Design: The Pants Sloper with Suzy Furrer

Draft custom pant slopers with confidence. Create the foundation for designing all the perfect-fitting pants you can dream up!

Patternmaking + Design: The Pants Sloper Continue reading “Draft custom pant slopers with confidence!”

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Pants, Pants, Pants… Lesson Learned

It was difficult to resist when I have seen a pants in a shop which fitted me quite ok. But I knew I have one waiting for me at home … to be finished. It was difficult decision to put it back on a rack.

From other side it was not so good decision to start on this project at the end of 2014. It is easy to get frustrated.

This McCall’s pattern M6440 pants looks so good on this model – so easy – so tempting…

M6440 (1)

After cutting the pattern pieces from the fashion fabric (stretch jeans) I sew all pieces with very loose stitch. I put it on hoping git will fit perfectly. Well… I probably do not have to add that it was not a success.

It took me few days of fitting to get acceptable result. So it was time to mark all adjustments on the pants and rip all seams.

Working on a pants - making adjustments

Next I transfer all changes on paper pattern pieces.

Working on a pants - transferring adjustments to paper patterns Working on a pants - making adjustments on paper form Working on a pants - making adjustments on paper form

This adjustment will be the most challenging…

Working on a pants - making adjustments on paper form - crotch line

I am curious if this adjusted version meets my expectations.

Next time I won’t start difficult/complicated project just before the end of the year. What’s your experience with difficult – frustration leading projects?

By Red Point Tailor

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The test garments follow up

My last test garments are ready. I have no more time to make more. I still have to help my mother with some spring cleaning and my work is calling as well.

1. I ma glad though I have managed to make the top of this Butterick pattern B5813. Generally speaking I will have make simple strait skirt to it but I prefer to have it cut in the waist. I have to try it and check it.

B5813 DSC_0005 Continue reading “The test garments follow up”

Here we go again

You touch one thing all need to be adjusted … pants – never-ending story.

I have made the muslin for the McCalls pattern M6440 by Palmer/Platsch. Generally speaking I like the pattern but there are some problems to fix.

McCalls pattern M6440 by Palmer/Platsch - fitting McCalls pattern M6440 by Palmer/Platsch - fitting

I pinned front and I liked it better however I have to fix other side now – no surprises. Continue reading “Here we go again”

From the old to the new pants

Good news – my mother can leave the hospital! In the end back home 🙂

Meanwhile I was helping my niece to make a new pants using her old pants she loved as a pattern.

She took pieces apart and using  waxed copypaper she has made patterns.

Making a new pent from an old one - step by stepMaking a new pent from an old one - step by step

Next she transfer the patterns onto a fabric. We have bought this fabric in Textilmar in Gdynia. Don’t go there close to the closing time – too many fabrics you would like to touch, look closer – but not so friendly service. You are forced to go out as they start to telling you they have no time and switching off the lights. This way you are not able to see the fabrics at all and it is really better to leave.
Maybe better to buy in the online shop. Or I will visit only the branch in Wejherowo – there is a very customer friendly service.

Another funny things has happened – which reminded me old times – when I was buying this waxed copy paper. Normally I am buying this paper per pack. One pack consists of two paper sheets  – and in Poland they sell it per sheet of paper. Country specific 🙂

Continue reading “From the old to the new pants”

Pant fitting – another muslin

Well, I am still busy with my – so far – last pants muslin. One of the stretch jeans muslin I have finished and wearing them – mostly at home. The last one is from cotton and I will make ii as wearable muslin as well.

This whole pants soap really exhausted me and took energy away. I was planning to make a jacket for my DH in May – no way. I am too addicted to the fitting.

As I wrote before I have follow the Craftsy class Pant Fitting Techniques online course by Sandra Betzina. I was not so glad with it. I did not learn a lot. I learned actually nothing new at all. I think I have learned more from the books I have. So it was nice surprise when I got my mony back from  Craftsy. I can spend them on other class 🙂

In the end I have bought the book – following advice of a lot of bloggers 🙂 (what a great community – thanks a lot!) – Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body – by Marta Alto, Pati Palmer. This is the book! Actually I expected the Craftsy course to be as this book – showing each amendments on a model.

image

This book is a must in every sewing library! It shows in a very structure way how to achieve a proper fitting trousers.

First chapters are showing more general approach – step by step, clearly with very handy tips. Then next chapters show fitting on real people. Each fitting issue is in picture and each adjustment is explained and then there is a picture after.  Wonderful, helpful, handy. It is making fitting own pants much easier. It helps to understand the whole process. The authors are as well honest in telling that it is a long process but you will reach the end goal! I am very glad I have bought this book – the only think I am sorry about is that I have bought electronic version. I think I will still buy regular one.

Following the advise from this book I will have to sew 5 pants within a week to exercise fitting. Well, I have enough fabric in my stash for this! Another good project for 2013 Style The Stash Sew A Long 🙂

Short update on pants fitting

It was good to have a short break from my pants and fitting issues.

I have completely forgotten about the Burda Sew Along so now I have to hurry up with my man jacket project. I will trace pattern tomorrow and start to make a muslin.

Meanwhile while having a stained glass workshop I came across a small treasury.

new attemt - pants fitting isseus follow up

 

Continue reading “Short update on pants fitting”

Here we go again :-)

I looked at all pants patterns I have made so far, all alterations and I concluded that I have to make a new one.

I took measurements once again – as far as I could do this…and I took old – very old book – with instruction how to draft standard trousers pattern.

'Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej

The title is ‘Konstrukcja i modelowanie odziezy damskiej ciezkiej (Construction (drafting) and modelling women’s wear (heavy))’ – by heavy is meant jackets, coats, etc., by Zbigniew Parafianowicz and Maria Piskorska. It was issued in 1986 for tailor schools. Very much use by me book – well tested Knipogende emoticon. From the pencil notes I could see I was making a pants once – long, long, long ago… based on the instruction from this book.

Continue reading “Here we go again :-)”

Pant Fitting Techniques online course by Sandra Betzina

Pant Fitting Techniques online course by Sandra Betzina

I followed the Pant Fitting Techniques online course by Sandra Betzina on Craftsy hoping to find solution for all my fitting issues. After the first two parts (introduction) I was enthusiast. Sandra was showing different ‘real’ people wearing pants indicating fitting issues. I have seen my issues there as well.

The basis of the course is the pants Vogue pattern 2948. There are in total 9 lessons during which Sandra is showing some patterns alterations on this pattern.

I am sure Sandra has great knowledge of pattern fitting however I did not like the way it was presented. I would prefer not only to see what/how/where to alter but what are the results of this alteration on a real person.  This I was missing. I had a feeling I was reading a book with pictures.

That’s true – you can find few handy tips/advises but generally it was not so useful for me.

I will probably by the Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body book and will read it over a weekend.

Wait… first I will again retrace my pattern including last adjustments and make new muslin after  I buy new tracing paper and muslin fabric.

Red Point Tailor

Almost for the last time pants fitting issues

Today I tested few crotch adjustments.

This adjustment #1. I have made the front crotch line 1 cm longer and back crotch line 2 cm shorter and deeper. There are still wrinkles but I could say acceptable.

pants fitting issuespants fitting issues

The adjustment # 2. I have made the front crotch line deeper and back crotch line shallower.

pants fitting issuespants fitting issues

The back looks better but the front I prefer as at the first adjustment.

I still think that the amount of seem allowances is playing a role here so I decided to combine adjustment # 1 for front and adjustment # 2 for back and make this muslin pants as they are at this moment. I can always wear them at home while e.g. gardening Glimlach

So here it is after it is almost finished:

pants fitting issuespants fitting issues

I immediately noticed strange wrinkle around the tights. As  I could not resist I pinned it and I will put it on the pattern. Having this done I think the next muslin will be better.

Funny thing is that when I compare the original Vogue 8781 pattern with the pattern I have drafted myself with all alterations – there main difference is this one horizontal wrinkle… it will be interesting to make another muslin.

Sometimes I think that maybe it would be better to make this pants from woven fabric without stretch – or less stretch.

As I have to leave for a weekend for my work I will give it a rest.

Red Point Tailor