The next make for vintage Vogue Jacket V1023 were single welt pocket.
I have started to made the welts the way I was always doing and then – when I was almost ready to sew the side seams together – I realised it will give a bulk.
The fashion fabric – boiled wool – is thick so I needed to find another method.
Designing Details: Pockets
To do this you need a pattern without seem allowances which you connect on the sides.
Then you draw a lines diagonal from the upper corner as showed below (pencil lines).
Next you cut the pattern following the new lines – future seam line.
I cut the interfacing from the hair canvas,
which I stitched to the underlining as showed below – zigzagging.
Such constructed interfacing I hand-stitched to the WS of the fashion fabric – outside the folding line – edges. You may as well go on with machine stitching. It will not visible on the RS.
Next you fold the welts connecting new seam lines and stitch.
Afterwords you trim and press open the seam allowances as showed below.
When you turn it RS up it looks like the picture below. The seam allowances are far away from the edges.
What you still need to do is to stitch on the lower seam line and your welts are ready to be set in.
PS. This Craftsy class – Designing Details: Pockets with Kenneth King is worth to follow. Kenneth is showing some handy tips and his method to make inserting of pockets easier and looking more professional.