My Vintage Vogue Jacket V1023 is designed with bound buttonholes, which gives this extra vintage twist to this garment.
I have checked the pattern description on the method recommended to use to make the bound buttonholes – which is the same as described in the book Vintage Couture Tailoring by Thomas von Nordheim.
BTW – this is fabulous book written with great passion for traditional tailoring /couture – you feel it while reading.
If you think
– the description in the pattern description is not so clear, or
– you do not have this book or any other book where the bound buttonholes technique is describe, then
-> check tutorials available on-line – there are so many different methods.
However if you would like to make bound buttonholes as recommended for this pattern – check this – TUTORIAL: BOUND BUTTONHOLES by Colette Patterns.
Let’s start test
My fashion fabric for this jacket is thick so I decided to test 2 methods to check which would give the best result and less bulk.
First of all I have prepared a sample of fabric layers exactly I am going to work with: fashion fabric, underlining, hair canvas. I have marked two buttonholes.
METHOD 1
I have made the first bound buttonhole making first the opening – using a piece of lining. Then I have made the stripes from the fashion fabric.
I have attached the stripes at the back of the test facing. Hmmm… it looks not so bad but I have a lot of bulk. This method would be good to use with thinner fabrics.
METHOD 2
The next method wat the one described in the pattern description. I have attached a piece of fashion fabric at the front, sew in place and cut the opening. I turn the piece of fabric to the WS and press.
Then I have folded the upper lip back up so that the half of the opening is covered and done the same with the bottom one. After pressing and fastening it was ready. This bound buttonhole is much better. It looks better and have less bulk.
The decision was made – I will use the second method.
Meanwhile I have chosen the buttons – they are almost vintage, I have bought them very long ago.
The next step – attaching the hair canvas to the front and then working on the bound buttonholes.
Red Point Tailor 
Very nice job indeed!
Thanks a lot! It is added value to the garment.
Great how-to blog post!
Thanks!
Oooh, iti s looking good! Where de you buy hair canvas here in the Netherlands? I’ve never used it in a jacket but you are making me want to try it out 🙂
It is fun working with hair canvas – easier then you think. Worth trying. I have seen hair cnavas – different thiknesses in Deventer Javro Stoffen (http://javro.nl/) and in this book ‘Vintage Couture Tailoring’ there is a Dutch shop mentiones in list of supplieers – A.C. ter Kuile – (http://www.actk.nl/ned/index_ned.html). A.C. ter Kuile levert haar producten onder andere aan Beauty v.o.f (http://www.beautyvof.com/).
The hair canvas I am using at this moment I have bought in Poland. This is almost over so I will have to buy soon from one of these shops – probably Beaty vof – they have online shop.
If you would like to comt to Deventer – let me know we could have drik coffee/thee together there – after visiting Javro Stoffen 🙂
I like those buttons! I’ll have to give that technique a try. I think it looks better than machine or hand buttonholes.
This is really easy method with great effect! Just try to make one in one of jackets 🙂
I like hand buttonholes as well – but sometimes you need something else 😉
Some great tips! Love vintage sewing projects x
Thanks a lot! I love vintage as well – time to make more vintage inspired garments 🙂
Method 2 is my favorite way of making bound buttons holes. Looks so much more cleaner and professional (in my opinion). Love you buttons! They look very nice in combination with the fashion fabric.
Thanks!
Method 2 was the only I knew and used … then I have seen other methods.
However – as you said – method 2 bound buttonholes look much more cleaner and professional.