When preparing to make a French jacket it is important to think not only about a fashion fabric (tweeds, plaids or buckles) but lining as well. And this could be quite challenging. You have to think ahead about the whole project.
Very often I use Viscose as a lining to my garments. It is thin and light and it is easy to work with. It is as well not so expensive.
“Viscose is a solution of cellulose xanthate made by treating a cellulose compound with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide. Byproducts include sodium thiocarbonate, sodium carbonate, and sodium sulfide. The viscose solution is used to spin the fiber viscose rayon, or rayon, a soft man-made fiber commonly used in dresses, linings, shirts, shorts, coats, jackets, and other outer wear. It is also used in industrial yarns (tyre cord), upholstery and carpets.” (quoted from Wikipedia)
Recently I have bought Cupro lining ‘Bemberg’. It is has nice structure and is a little softer then Viscose. I will probably use it now more often.
“Merrium-Webster defines Cuprammonium rayon as “a rayon made from cellulose dissolved in cuprammonium solution”
It is produced by making cellulose a soluble compound by combining it with copper and ammonia. The solution of this material in caustic soda is passed through the spinneret and the cellulose is regenerated in the hardening baths that remove the copper and ammonia and neutralize the caustic soda. Cuprammonium rayon is usually made in fine filaments that are used in lightweight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes in combination with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed, uneven surfaces.
The fabric is commonly known by the trade name “Bemberg”, owned by the J.P. Bemberg company.” (quoted from Wikipedia)
This Washed Cupro attracted my attention by its softness. It has really silk touch. It could be used as a lining but it is as well perfect to use for tops, blouses and dresses. It has wonderful drape.
The most beautiful to use as a lining is silk charmeuse. It is a fabric which has a shimmery satine weave on the front and the back is a flattened crepe. Has great drape (better than crepe de chine) and it is strong enough to be used in the French jacket as a lining. It cames in plain colours but you may go for a pattern as well.
However keep in mind that this is not so easy to sew fabrics as it is extremely slippery and difficult to control. To avoid that the seams will pucker and pull use of a smaller stitch length and finer thread is recommended. Charmeuse also tends to leave holes and marks where the fabric was pinned – so use pins only in the seam allowances.
Charmeuse (French: [ʃaʁmøːz]) is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, where the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish—lustrous and reflective—whereas the back has a dull finish. It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive and delicate but is softer and a better insulator. Polyester charmeuse is cheaper and can often withstand machine washing, but it does not breathe as well as silk. Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that charmeuse is softer and lighter in weight.
The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to lingerie, flowing evening gowns, and drapey blouses. Bridal gowns sometime use charmeuse, however, the fabric does not hold a shape well, so it is not used for full, flared skirts; the charmeuse tends to cling and hang against the body. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinky bias cut, and is too fragile and flimsy for more tailored clothing.
Its uses in menswear include the lining of jackets and slacks, handkerchiefs, ties, and underwear such as charmeuse boxer shorts.
Charmeuse tears easily, especially when wet, so dry-cleaning is recommended.The look of satin is highly prized for dressy garments,since it flows well on the body and catches light in stunning patterns. (quoted from Wikipedia)
I have bought this amazing Silk Charmeuse Fabric – Gray and Pink Squares in Etsy shop – silkfabric. Nicole has a lot of beautiful silk fabrics to offer – very difficult to resist. She was very helpful during the choosing and purchasing process. I have to say I was very surprised how fast the shipping take. The small package was delivered within week.
I have bought only 1 yard and I am going to use this silk charmeuse for a dress. I will make a drape front and will combine it with the gray wool fabric I have in my stash.
For my next French jacket I am going to use silk charmeuse. Especially that a fashion fabric is a silk, cotton bland.
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- Make sure to have all in place before you start working on a French Jacket (redpointtailor.wordpress.com)
- The French Jacket courses review – part 1 (redpointtailor.wordpress.com)
- Acetate fabric (circularknittingmachines.wordpress.com)