I am somewhere in the middle of my French jacket sewing process. I think that I event catch up with the French Jacket sew along schema. However there is still a lot to do.
My preparation to make this jacket started few years ago with a Go Chanel or Go Home sew-along, which leaded to an article in the Threads magazine Inside a Chanel Jacket by Susan Khalje.
Recently Craftsy developed a new class The Iconic Tweed Jacket by Lorna Knight.
Even though information in other posts and articles and instructions written on French Jacket sew along blog are very informative I decided to follow this Craftsy class.
The class starts with a pattern – Lorna is making a jacket based on the Vogue pattern V7975 – how to pick up correct size. Then she discuss on the best fabrics for this jacket as well as choosing stabilizers, lining, trim and chain embellishments that add structure to this iconic jacket. The next step is making a muslin where she present some fitting aspects.
After fitting the muslin the real work starts – cutting the fashion fabric, lining, stabilizers and sewing.Lorna is using silk dupioni as a lining to give a structure to the loosely woven tweed. The sewing process begins with joining first the front pattern pieces – center and side, as well as back (in fashion fabric and lining) before quilting (I think this is the only what differs this class from other methods). The same process is followed with sleeves – first pattern pieces are joined together then quilted. Of course the site seam stays open to make quilting easier. Afterwords all pieces are joined together – you do not escape from hand sewing, and the sleeves are gather and shape before sewing them high into the armholes for a classic look.
Lorna is showing as well how to attach a chain that gives your garment a dreamy drape as well as how to replace it if we cannot find one.
Did I learn something new – hmm, no. I think that for those who take part in the French Jacket sew along and has the book (with DVD) Couture Sewing – The Couture Cardigan Jacket by Claire Shaeffer it is not so must class. I like to see how others approach projects, how they solve issues. It is difficult to say which method of making a garment is better. This one is for sure a little different. The result is the same.
Lorna is a great teacher. She gives clear instructions, there are great close-ups, and as always with Craftsy classes – you can come back to watch it over and over again.
So if you are planning to make a jacket – it is a great start. You will get all needed information and a free pattern.
If you think this is something for you – Craftsy has a Holiday sale till Monday for all online classes!
Next time I will write about the ‘The Contemporary Couture Jacket’ by Angela Wolf on Pattern Review.
- French Jacket progress (redpointtailor.wordpress.com)
- Find out how you can benefit from everything Craftsy offers (redpointtailor.wordpress.com)
- French jacket sewing techniques resources (redpointtailor.wordpress.com)
- The Little French Jacket (sewingforward.com)