My Vintage Vogue Jacket V1023 is designed with bound buttonholes, which gives this extra vintage twist to this garment.
I have checked the pattern description on the method recommended to use to make the bound buttonholes – which is the same as described in the book Vintage Couture Tailoring by Thomas von Nordheim.
BTW – this is fabulous book written with great passion for traditional tailoring /couture – you feel it while reading.
If you think
– the description in the pattern description is not so clear, or
– you do not have this book or any other book where the bound buttonholes technique is describe, then
-> check tutorials available on-line – there are so many different methods.
However if you would like to make bound buttonholes as recommended for this pattern – check this - TUTORIAL: BOUND BUTTONHOLES by Colette Patterns.
Let’s start test
My fashion fabric for this jacket is thick so I decided to test 2 methods to check which would give the best result and less bulk.
First of all I have prepared a sample of fabric layers exactly I am going to work with: fashion fabric, underlining, hair canvas. I have marked two buttonholes.
I have made the first bound buttonhole making first the opening – using a piece of lining. Then I have made the stripes from the fashion fabric.
I have attached the stripes at the back of the test facing. Hmmm… it looks not so bad but I have a lot of bulk. This method would be good to use with thinner fabrics.
The next method wat the one described in the pattern description. I have attached a piece of fashion fabric at the front, sew in place and cut the opening. I turn the piece of fabric to the WS and press.
Then I have folded the upper lip back up so that the half of the opening is covered and done the same with the bottom one. After pressing and fastening it was ready. This bound buttonhole is much better. It looks better and have less bulk.
The decision was made – I will use the second method.
Meanwhile I have chosen the buttons – they are almost vintage, I have bought them very long ago.
The next step – attaching the hair canvas to the front and then working on the bound buttonholes.